Agra: East and West of the Taj Mahal

(Continued from Agra: Hijacked at the Taj Mahal)

Featured Photo: “Taj Mahal in the Charbagh, with Parrot in Flight”  Agra, India—2011

My guide steered me toward the domed red sandstone building—a beautiful contrast to the brilliant white marble of the mausoleum itself. This was one of two mirror-image structures, which flank the Taj Mahal. On the opposite, western side of the Taj is a large mosque, still used today for worship. This building on the eastern side where we were standing, is known as the jawab (meaning “response’), and was put there just to complete the architectural symmetry of the complex; it cannot be used as a mosque since it faces away from Mecca.

The interior of the jawab contains a series of decorative arches…

…that provide nicely framed views of the minarets…

…and the Taj itself.

We left the jawab and headed back to the Lotus Pool, continuing on toward the mosque on the other side of the Taj. But as we walked, I decided I’d had enough of my guide’s services and said as much to him. I was not surprised when he asked for payment, but I was surprised by the amount he requested. I made a counteroffer, and he countered that. I recall we settled somewhere in the middle, and I handed him 1,000 rupees (about $20).

As we parted ways, I considered that overall, it had been well worth it. To his credit, he’d been helpful during my photographic exploration of the Taj. He’d taken me to the right spots and helped me get great shots with ideal lighting, and even took some pictures with me in them. And I also came away with a story to tell in the bargain.

But now I was anxious to strike out on my own—with my camera—ready to walk the grounds and take my photos on my own terms, in my own time. Before continuing along, I took another picture of the Taj in its beautiful garden setting—today’s Featured Photo—even capturing a graceful parrot in flight (by chance). I’d regained my independence; I felt as free as that bird!

I wanted to reset my visit, so I returned to the place where I’d been before the interruption so I could take that picture I had intended: the Taj with its image mirrored in the calm water of the Lotus Pool.

I would suggest that it’s hard to take a bad picture of the Taj Mahal; it seems so perfectly fashioned. The main challenge is trying to avoid having lots of other visitors captured in the frame. But with a little patience—waiting for casual strollers to move on—the number of individuals in the photo can be minimized. And as I’d already observed, the vast size of the place makes people appear insignificant, almost invisible.

Before moving on from the Lotus Pool, I captured another image of the full expanse of the Taj, set high upon its lofty platform; with marbled waterways and walkways leading to the tomb itself, and four symmetrically arranged minarets marking the corners.

As I began to roam on my own, I found myself retracing the path I’d taken with my guide; this time I wanted to absorb all the details I might have overlooked on my quick initial glance. I first returned to the jawab—the “dummy” mosque on the east side of the Taj—where I now noticed steps leading to a paneled door, bounded by a beautiful carved red sandstone screen.

I paused for a long look at the exceptional interior decorations, with black and white stones contrasting the red background…

…and gazed up at the intricate geometric design of the domed ceiling, reminiscent of M.C. Escher’s graphic patterns (which would come some 300 years later).

Taking my leave of the jawab, I wandered through the lush charbagh past the front of the Taj…

…on my way to the true mosque on the west side.

Reaching the steps to the lower platform, I paused and pulled the shoe covers out of the bag I’d been handed at the ticket desk; I wanted to respect this sacred place: both the mosque and the mausoleum.

Climbing the steps and finding shade beneath one of the tall minarets, I was again amazed by the sheer scale of this structure: the visitors near the mosque’s main entrance seemed so tiny.

Viewed from another perspective, with a small reflecting pool in the frame, the immensity of the mosque was even more apparent compared with the specks that were people.

Yet even the huge mosque was dwarfed by the enormous white marble mausoleum itself, as observed in the earlier photo I’d taken while still walking in the garden, which had both structures in view. I walked toward the mosque for a closer look, glancing back at the Taj—now a hazy gray shadow against the harsh glare of the eastern sun…

…reminding me that my guide had done well to take me first to the jawab on the other side, where the early morning light had bathed the Taj in golden tones. Now the sun painted the true mosque’s exterior sandstone features in vibrant reddish-orange…

…and illuminated the interior spaces…

…revealing more of the gorgeous adornment.

After exploring the majestic mosque, I was ready to continue on. I wandered over to one of the white marble minarets.

I had read it was unusual for these towers to be detached from the main tomb itself, but they were cleverly designed—with a precise height (less than their distance from the Taj) and with a slight lean (away from the tomb)—so as not to damage the mausoleum if they happened to fall. And despite the steps, which led to the entry door of the minaret…

…with more steps going up inside, tourists were not allowed to climb to the top (where I imagine the view would be spectacular!)

At this point—nearly two hours after arriving at the Taj Mahal—I had to nudge myself to get going. I remembered I had not yet entered the interior of the tomb itself!

(To be continued…)